What’s it like to live in a far-off place most of us see only on a vacation? Foreign Correspondence is an interview with someone who lives in a spot you may want to visit. Niall Rochford, 38, is general manager of Ashford Castle in County Mayo, in northwest Ireland. The Irish native previously was deputy general manager at Dromoland Castle in Shannon, Ireland.Q. You went to school in hotel management and ended up running castles-turned-hotels. Did you take a Castles 101 course?A. At times I wish I did. There are different challenges and there are few castle-hotels that are genuine throughout Europe. We have challenges with maintenance and energy efficiency, but other than that, it has been very positive.Q. Look out your window. What do you see? A. I’m looking out the window of Ashford Castle’s Connaught Room, which dates to the 17th century. I’m looking at an incredible scene, Lough Corrib. I see the fountain, trees and shrubs. It’s dry today but windy. The lake’s water level is high. Corrib is the second-largest lake in Ireland. It’s a very rugged and rough scene, but idyllic. There are not many views like this.Q. What’s the backstory on Ashford Castle? A. One section goes back to 1228, when the first stones were laid on what became known as the Ashford estate. It was rebuilt by the de Burgos family, Anglo-Norman invaders who fought the O’Connor clan and claimed this land. It went through different hands but was used as a stronghold for years.The estate as we know it began in the 17th century, when the Guinness family - the brewing family - took it over. They used it as their main hunting and fishing lodge and summer resort. It was a place of jollity where parties were held.Around the 1840s, the time of the Great Famine, Sir Benjamin Lee Guinness wanted to extend the estate’s beauty, develop formal gardens and give local people work. He also built schools. When Ireland won independence in 1922, many castles were burned or had roofs taken off or were reclaimed by the Irish. Ashford wasn’t, because the family was known to be benevolent.In the 1930s, the Guinnesses handed the castle to the government. They weren’t using it, and it seemed like the thing to do. A gentleman leased it from the government, and in 1939 developed Ashford Castle as a hotel. An American industrialist bought it in 1973 and built a golf course on the estate, added rooms, and transformed it into an international-standard hotel. In 1984 it was taken over by an Irish-American syndicate that has run it ever since.Q. Old castles - old ghosts? A. We have a number. Best known is the daughter of Lady Ardilaun - one of the Guinnesses - in one room. People sometimes get a cold feeling in there. It’s in an old part of the castle, but this isn’t because of the heating. We put in an elevator, and we’ve heard that on a number of occasions it goes up and down by itself.Q. How many rooms are available? A. 430.Q. Are they old? Modern? A. We have a four-year refurbishment plan. All rooms are suites with their own showers, Internet, TV systems and converters. Still, it is in keeping with the old style; the look is in no way contemporary. We brought the 12th century into the 21st.Q. The west of Ireland has always been rugged and undeveloped. Is that still true? A. Let’s put it this way: it’s very unspoiled. We’re on the edge of Connemara, the most rugged and wonderful part of Ireland, with deep valleys and great scenery. That’s 10 or 15 miles from where we are. We’re where people go to be at one with nature.Q. There aren’t many large cities; is it mostly villages? A. We’re in Cong village, which has a population of about 35. We have five pubs and two churches.There are some effects of the “Celtic Tiger” (Irish economic boom) like nice houses, but this is as unspoiled as you can get in Ireland.There are planning laws in some areas of Ireland: You can’t over-modernize. Cong is a very traditional village with thatched cottages. It’s not leprechaun kitsch; it’s the real island. It takes the ability to combine the modern and old and make it work.Q. What’s there to do? A. In Connemara, you can visit Kylemore Abbey, which is still a working school and much a part of a tour of Connemara. There’s the Museum of Country Life, in Castlebar, about 45 minutes from here. On our Web site - www.ashford.ie - you’ll see a full range of attractions around the castle.At the castle is Ireland’s only school of falconry. We have a nine-hole golf course, equestrian center and some of the best river and lake fishing. Shooting, too.Q. How large are the castle grounds? A. 365 acres. In the Guinnesses’ time, it was larger - thousands of acres, as far as the eye could see. As time went on, parts were sold off or given to the state.Q. Guinness on tap? A. Indeed. It has been flowing here for an awful long time. In terms of food, our Cullen’s at the Cottage has nice lobster, mussels and other seafood. We also have the Prince of Wales Bar, named after the fellow who became King George V. In 1903 he visited Lord Ardilaun. Part of the castle was extended and renovated for that visit. I believe that visit holds the Guinness Book of Records record for largest woodcock shoot.Q. Are there any woodcocks left? A. Lots of wild ones around, without a doubt. In winter, you go rough shooting for that, pheasant and snipe.Know someone who lives in an interesting city or country who would like to give us the inside line on visiting there? E-mail, in English, jbordsen@charlotteobserver.com.

Here’s a hotel that should be music to your ears.Its theme? Accordion polka tunes.The 38-room Marv Herzog Hotel opened seven months ago in this German-themed mid-Michigan tourist town. Perched on the edge of the Cass River, it is within walking distance to shops. Its rooms have balconies, comfortable beds and free wireless Internet.There’s a hot breakfast every morning and a free cocktail hour featuring rich Frankenmuth beer every night. And each guest room celebrates a year in Marv Herzog’s life with a collage of framed memorabilia. If you’re thinking, who the heck is Marv Herzog?, obviously you don’t know your polka history.Herzog was Frankenmuth’s most famous accordionist and bandleader. Herzog specialized in Bavarian-American polka music. He performed for years all over the world, but especially at polka festivals in town, playing such favorites as “The Blue Skirt Waltz,” “In Heaven There is No Beer ” and the “Red Raven Polka.” When Herzog died in 2002, his friend Bob Drury, owner of the Missouri-based Drury Hotel chain, decided to build a hotel in Herzog’s memory with the help of the late bandleader’s widow, Teresa. Now it’s in business. In the spacious light-oak lobby is a small display featuring Herzog’s hefty accordion and a tall silver microphone. The lobby also has several cases of other memorabilia - Herzog’s awards, childhood toys, lederhosen and more. No, there’s no polka music playing.Rates start at $99 a night, “but right now, we’re having a mid week special of $49.99 a night,” says assistant general manager Amanda Guild. One reviewer on Trip Advisor.com wrote, “I booked this hotel as a joke, but the joke was on me, because it turned out we had a great time.”I agree. The Marv Herzog Hotel hits just the right key.The hotel, 501 Main St. (www.marvherzoghotel.com, 877-400-4210), takes reservations by phone only. And by the way, Frankenmuth has been changing in other ways while you weren’t looking. Three other cool things to see while you’re there:The Harvest Coffeehouse & Beanery, 701 Mill St., opened last March at the spacious old Nikless-Hubinger flour mill. Its owners have recreated the relaxed ambience of their favorite Nashville coffee house with banjos on the walls and a cluttered living room feel. There’s also free Internet, a gallery featuring local artwork, live music on weekends and poetry nights. (www.harvestcoffeehouse.com, 989-652-6089)Heilerde Day Spa, 925 S. Main at the River Place shopping center. It’s a delightfully soothing place for a massage, pedicure or facials; try the Chocolate Fondue Facial for $65. Heilerde is a German word for “healing earth.” (www.heilerdedayspa.com, 989-652-6117) Ha’ Penny, 626 S. Main. This cool little shop opened last summer in the space of a former arcade. It features all kinds of tea, gifts and Frankenmuth-made soap and soy candles. Very nice. (www.ha-penny.com, 989-652-2400)Ellen Creager: ecreager@freepress.com

Disney sure knows how to spin a yarn.After all, the entertainment giant successfully transformed its wildly popular animated films - “The Lion King” and “Beauty and the Beast” - into hit Broadway musicals for theatergoers. For its resort landlubbers, Disney also adapted its animated fish tale, “Finding Nemo,” into a musical two years ago at Animal Kingdom at Walt Disney World.But does Disney have any magic left up its sleeves for fans who cruise its two vessels, the Disney Magic and Disney Wonder? What animated fantasy could it possibly take from big screen to seagoing stage?For fans of “Toy Story,” here comes “Toy Story - The Musical.”After pumping millions of dollars into the venture, Disney recently announced that it’s bringing “Toy Story” to sea in April. Using larger-than-life props, inflatable fan-cooled puppet costumes, rear-projection screen technology and about 20 singers, actors, and dancers, cowboy Woody and space ranger Buzz Lightyear will come to life on the small stage of the Disney’s Wonder.According to Disney spokesman Jason Lasecki, “Toy Story - The Musical” is the largest theatrical production at sea.”Toy Story - The Musical,” the first Disney-Pixar classic to be adapted to the stage, “represents the next generation of staged entertainment for Disney Cruise Lines,” says the line’s president Tom McAlpin.The stage adaptation faithfully follows the animated film version, yet has its own twists, beyond the technological theatrics required to transform cartoon characters into breathing creatures, including an entirely new musical score.With the exception of Randy Newman’s Oscar-nominated hit song “You’ve Got a Friend in Me,” all the music for this stage production is new with an added seven-song score. New York-based husband-and-wife team Valerie Vigoda and Brendan Milburn from the band GrooveLily have created a contemporary extravaganza from a blend of pop, rock and folk music.Costume designer Ann Closs-Farley tosses into the creative mix her artistic spice - a combination of novel puppets and inflatable costumes, even a nearly 9-foot-tall version of Rex the dinosaur and a 4-foot-round Hamm the piggybank.The cruise line offers three-, four- and seven-night itineraries to the Bahamas and the Caribbean. For details, visit disneycruise.comWhile Disney focuses on fantasy, Royal Caribbean International is banking on a reality show for its hottest entertainment. And in RCI’s newest production, you could be the star.In the line’s innovative show, “Invitation to Dance,” passengers star as ballroom dancers in a collage of rumba, samba, cha-cha, waltz and swing pieces.After a stiff dancing competition on the first night of each cruise aboard the line’s Explorer of the Seas, four couples are selected to star in the musical production.To help competitors put their best feet forward, passengers get help from the line’s professional dancers, stylists, and make-up artists. In preparation for their stage debut, finalists must learn slick dance routines as well as attend costume fittings..The show is a collaboration between Louis van Amstel, Emmy-nominated choreographer for ABC-TV’s “Dancing with the Stars,” and Cheryl Burke, two-time winner on the show.If you long for the spotlight, take your best shot. Explorer of the Seas sails year-round from Cape Liberty Cruise Port in Bayonne, N.J., on five-night Bermuda getaway cruises and nine-night Caribbean vacations. For more information, go to royalcaribbean.com.

Known as South America’s Everglades, Brazil’s Pantanal is home to giant river otters, jaguars, marsh deer, tapirs, roseate spoonbills and hyacinthine macaws, the largest macaws in the world.This immense freshwater wetland is the setting for a May 18-28 journey offered by Abercrombie & Kent in partnership with the Nature Conservancy.Hosted by zoologist and conservation expert Luciana Honigman, the expedition also takes in Brazil’s Atlantic Forest and its inhabitants - golden lion tamarins, wooly spider monkeys, maned three-toed sloths and highly threatened red-tailed parrots. Though Brazil’s diverse wildlife is its main focus, the trip sets aside a day or two for sightseeing in Rio.The fee of $7,285 covers accommodations, most meals, activities and tours, with an additional $1,404 for internal airfare. International airfare is extra.Other Abercrombie & Kent Nature Conservancy journeys target Papua New Guinea, Ecuador and the Galapagos, Alaska and Peru.(800-554-7016; www.abercrombiekent.com, under Escorted Travel click on The Nature Conservancy)TUTORIALS ON THE THAMESThe halls and spires of Oxford are familiar to followers of Inspector Morse and other such PBS characters. Now these fans can join Anglophiles from all over the world for a summer week studying, living and dining at Christ Church, one of the most prestigious of the Oxford colleges.With five sessions starting on Sundays June 29-July 27, the weekly courses cover topics ranging from “Romantic Jane Austin” to “Castles in Britain.”Tuition, six nights’ lodging and most meals come to $1,879, with extra charges for excursions and private bath. Additional costs are round-trip airfare to London and the bus transfer between Heathrow and Oxford. (www.conted.ox.ac.uk/courses/international/oxfordexperience.asp)ALASKA UNDER SAILThe 92-foot schooner Maple Leaf offers travelers a true small-ship adventure in Alaska, taking just eight passengers on an unscripted nature tour of the state’s southeastern coast.The Maple Leaf’s “Alaska Supervoyage 1″ sails from Prince Rupert, British Columbia, to Sitka, Alaska, May 29-June 9, while “Alaska Supervoyage 2″ reverses the itinerary June 10-21. Each is priced at $5,404, all inclusive except for transportation between home and the voyage’s starting and ending points.Other sailings on the Maple Leaf visit Canada’s Queen Charlotte Islands, Gulf Islands and Vancouver Island’s wild northwest coast. (888-599-5323; www.mapleleafadventures.com, click on Schedule & Pricing)CLUBS ON DEMANDGolfers on the move have the choice of lugging their own clubs along on a trip or paying top-dollar to rent clubs - sometimes of questionable quality - at the golf course. Until now, that is.GolfClubsAway.com can deliver sets of Nike or Callaway clubs for $35 or $45 per day, respectively, to your hotel or course. A one-time fee of $10 lets golfers customize their bags, mixing the clubs and models of their choice. There are no shipping or delivery fees.But golfers shouldn’t discard their travel golf bags just yet. The service is available only in Florida’s Miami-Dade, Broward and Palm Beach Counties, though plans call for expansion to other locations throughout the U.S. (954-615-2326; www.golfclubsaway.com)

No desire to batter your body climbing granite? Joshua Tree National Park isn’t just a rock climbers and boulderers paradise; it offers thousands of acres to explore inside and outside of the park.During most winter days, a park ranger leads a tour around the old Desert Queen Ranch for $5 per adult and $2.50 for those 12 and younger. On one sunny December morning, park ranger Dar Spearing led the 1 {-hour tour, holding pictures of the William Keys family in his hands.Keys and his wife spent 60 years on the Mojave ranch, raising five kids and starting up a number of businesses, including a small store, lodging, junkyard and cannery business. Keys was involved in one of the last tales of the “Wild West,” Spearing says. In 1943, Keys shot and killed neighbor Worth Bagley after Bagley ambushed him outside of Keys’ property. Keys was imprisoned at San Quentin State Prison until 1948, then returned to the ranch, where he lived until his death in 1969. (Call for tour dates, 760-367-5555.)Also offered frequently in the park is the Birding at Barker Dam tour. The park features more than 250 species of birds - such as the greater roadrunner, phainopepla, mockingbird, verdin and cactus wren- and many are seen throughout the year, with or without guides. Guided tours are free. Visitors meet at Barker Dam, a picturesque dam built by the area’s early mining settlers and completed by William Keys in the 1950s.Park visitors also can drive up to Keys View on the crest of the Little San Bernardino Mountains. It provides a panoramic view of the Coachella Valley and, on good days, the view stretches into Mexico.Also in the winter, hikers can take advantage of the many trails across the desert floor. A popular 1.3-mile walk for beginners is in the hills behind the Black Rock Canyon campground in the park’s northwest section. Longer trails, including the Panorama Loop and Warren Peak, also start here.”One of my favorite winter hikes is to the Lost Palms Oasis hike,” says Cindy VonHalle, a parks spokeswoman. The hike, in the southeast corner of the park, is seven miles.VonHalle says park visitors should avoid long hikes if they visit Joshua Tree National Park in the summertime, as temperatures can reach more than 100 degrees after May.Expect to start seeing wildflowers in February in the park’s lower elevations, near the Pinto Basin on the southern boundary. Higher elevation plants start blooming in March and April and flowers can be seen through June.For night visitors, once a month - on a Saturday close to the new moon - the Andromeda Astronomical Society hosts a star party in the park. The program begins shortly after dark and lasts for about 1 { hours.About 45 minutes north of Joshua Tree in the town of Landers is the Integratron. This strange building was built by the late UFO enthusiast George Van Tassel, starting in the late 1950s and lasting until his death in the late 1970s.Van Tassel described the Integratron as a “machine, a high-voltage electrostatic generator that would supply a broad range of frequencies to recharge the cell structure.” Today, it offers “sonic rejuvenation” sessions by appointment only and hosts private parties and art events, including a recent showing of two 9-foot Tesla coils by Bay Area artist Greg Leyh.A few miles away from the Integratron, also in Landers, is Giant Rock. Aptly named, Giant Rock is one of the largest boulders in the world, measuring seven stories high.The road to Giant Rock is unpaved and incredibly rough. Once tourists reach the rock, they likely will be disappointed. Giant Rock, once considered sacred to Native Americans and a wonder to UFO enthusiasts, has been split in two and spray-painted by vandals. It does not sit on protected state or federal parkland.South of Joshua Tree National Park is the city of Palm Springs. Once a mecca for old Hollywood, the place now is defined by its luxurious spas, fancy eateries and large homosexual population. It is ground zero for the world’s largest lesbian event, the Dinah Shore party, happening April 2-6. It’s also home base for music fans visiting the Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival from April 25-27.For a more one-of-a-kind experience, take a ride on the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway. The dream of engineer Francis F. Crocker, the tramway first operated in the early 1960s, traveling up to Mount San Jacinto State Park and Wilderness, boasting an altitude of 8,000 feet.Riding the tram is a daylong adventure that is best started early in the morning but can be done anytime into the early evening hours.The quick 2.5-mile ride lasts 10 minutes and crosses a number of distinct ecosystems before reaching the forested mountaintop. Lena Zimmerschied of the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway says snow stays atop the mountain until April and several people take snow sleds and other toys to enjoy white winters.The tram also is a great summer escape - the temperature on top of mountain is usually 40 degrees cooler than at its base.

Two New Jersey senators said Thursday they would block President Bush’s choice to head the Federal Aviation Administration, saying they are unhappy with the government’s handling of widespread flight delays that often begin in their East Coast airspace.The president urged the Senate to “put aside politics” and confirm Robert Sturgell.Democrats Robert Menendez and Frank Lautenberg said they would use a procedural device called a “hold” to block Sturgell’s nomination from coming to the Senate floor for a vote.The move will not have any immediate effect on the agency, because Sturgell is already the acting administrator, but it reflects ongoing disputes between congressional Democrats and the administration over the best way to solve the flight delays that have plagued U.S. air travelers in the past year, as well as runway safety issues and air controller staffing.”I’ve had to make hard choices, sometimes unpopular choices during my tenure with the FAA. But we’ve learned to manage better and leaner. We’ve implemented financial management strategies that better serve the taxpayer while maintaining the standard of excellence under which we operate,” Sturgell said at his nomination hearing Thursday morning before the Senate Commerce Committee.The government has announced new limits for takeoffs and landings at New York area airports, where many of the national delays begin. The agency is also redesigning airspace routes, which angers some communities worried about increased noise from jets.”It’s time for President Bush to nominate an administrator who solves transportation problems, rather than creating more of them,” said Lautenberg.Bush’s defense of Sturgell came during an appearance in the White House East Room, where the president focused on over 180 nominations that are pending before the Senate.”The Senate must confirm nominees who will help address issues of public safety,” Bush said, adding that Sturgell has the experience and skills to get the job done.Sturgell “has nearly 20 years of cockpit experience from his time as a Navy fighter pilot, Top Gun instructor, and commercial airline pilot,” Bush said. “He is committed to addressing problems that have caused airline delays.”

When it comes to winter getaways, most people think warm: Cabo, Jamaica, Miami. These are the literal hot spots, where bone-chilling winter blahs melt like so many snowflakes into sandy beaches, tropical drinks and balmy sunsets. But a quick jaunt to Cabo, Jamaica or even Miami isn’t always an option, for obvious reasons: money, timing and availability.Consider, then, the rogue winter excursion: Consider heading into the cold instead of warmth. Consider trekking north instead of south. Consider the urban retreat instead of the beach getaway.In other words, consider Milwaukee.(It should be noted that as I’m writing this before you’re reading this, Miami had a high of 81 F. Milwaukee’s was 5 F. But Milwaukee has butter burgers.)Sure, it’s cold there. Big deal. You can handle it. Plan a weekend full of fireside relaxing and comfort-food dining. And shopping. And indoor sightseeing. And old world culture. Milwaukee, after all, is a metropolis.So what’s the advantage of ditching one freezing city for another?For starters, the traffic - or lack thereof. There’s hardly any congestion, even during Friday rush hour. Plus, there’s parking everywhere - much of it free, or shockingly cheap.And then there’s the food. Beyond the bevy of brats and cheese curds, Milwaukee’s dining scene is surprisingly satisfying. Yes, I did have a butter burger - correction: I had a veggie butter burger. (Note to vegetarians: You’ll do fine here.) But I also indulged in a leisurely Saturday night dinner for two at a restaurant whose executive chef was nominated last year for a James Beard award. Everything right down to the dessert was perfect, and the bill was less than $175 for the two of us, including drinks, tax and tip.Consider, too, the fact that Milwaukee knows the cold well, and has planned accordingly. Should you visit the Milwaukee Art Museum (and you should), take your time in the parking garage - it’s heated. The museum itself, of course, is fabulous. Beyond the new wing designed by starchitect Santiago Calatrava, there’s an enormous permanent collection that rivals most major cities’. It houses one of the largest collections of Georgia O’Keeffe paintings in the States, a cool gift shop and stunning views of Lake Michigan. Not to mention, its exhibitions are top notch. Don’t tell the Art Institute, but I kind of like Milwaukee’s art museum better.I also like its coffee better. Milwaukee’s Intelligentsia, so to speak, is Alterra Coffee Roasters, and there are a half-dozen outposts (my favorite is the Fifth Ward Foundry) at which one can sip the strong stuff; eat a melt-in-your-mouth provolone, cheddar and pepperjack grilled Wisconsin cheese sandwich; and linger awhile.Another place where Milwaukee shines is the Friday night fish fry. They’re virtually everywhere in this town - winter and summer - and some are better than others. I took my chances on a new place in the suburbs, namely for the fact that I’d read it boasted a fireplace. Still dusted with snow from a big storm the week prior, the Pleasant Valley Inn was a cozy wintry oasis, right down to the snowman stationed at the entryway. The lighting is dim, the soundtrack is Frank Sinatra, and wood paneling is everywhere. Oh, and the fish fry wasn’t half bad. Besides, everything tastes better fireside.Actually, everything is better fireside. Even sleeping. Such was the rationale for booking a semi-pricey (for Milwaukee) room at the Euro-style boutique Hotel Metro. It’s housed in a historic Art Deco building in the East Town neighborhood, and it’s all suites, a number of which have gas fireplaces. Further winter relaxing comes courtesy of a rooftop spa with a saltwater hot tub, a sauna … and a mini-workout room in which to burn off some of that guilt stomached with all the good food here.Speaking of food … That delectable Saturday night dinner for two took place at Bacchus, the newest restaurant in Milwaukee’s renowned chain of Bartolotta Restaurants, founded by brothers Paul and Joe Bartolotta. It’s named for the Roman god of wine, and how: Bacchus has hundreds of wines on offer, from reasonably priced glasses of Australian shiraz to a $1,200 bottle of Bordeaux. As for dinner? Flawless. The brothers are also responsible for Bartolotta’s Lake Park Bistro, poised north of downtown in a stunning location overlooking Lake Michigan. It’s excellent for dinner but famous for its Sunday brunch, a prix fixe with three perfect courses of casual French bistro fare. The creme brulee, by the way, is rich enough to earn Milwaukee its Cream City nickname all over again.Beyond its restaurants, Milwaukee is a brew town, and there’s no shortage of pubs at which to drink the sudsy stuff - or learn how it’s made. A tour of the Miller Brewing Co. is free, as are two complimentary samples at its conclusion. Microbreweries tend to be a bit more generous. The Sprecher Brewing Co., for instance, a tiny operation headquartered just down the street from Solly’s Grille (home of the aforementioned veggie butter burger), offers a brief tour and four samples for $3, plus unlimited quaffing of its tasty root beer and sodas, and the beer-sampling glass is yours to keep when you leave.Milwaukee’s brewtown legacy extends to architectural tours - good news for gloomy days. The Pabst Mansion, on the edge of the Marquette University campus, is the massive graystone residence built for beer baron Capt. Frederick Pabst in 1892, and it’s a true mansion, by every definition of the word: It’s grand, it’s old, it’s hand-crafted, and you’re not allowed to touch anything. But it’s warm inside.Also exceptionally warm: the Milwaukee Public Museum’s butterfly conservatory, where it’s a balmy 80 F year-round. The rest of the permanent exhibits are rather dated; “The Streets of Old Milwaukee,” which showcases European immigrants’ 1880s abodes, opened in 1965 - and doesn’t appear to have changed much since. But big-time visiting exhibits, like the current “Body Worlds,” are a regular feature, and when coupled with admission to the Daniel M. Soref Planetarium, the $15 twofer ticket is a fine way to while away a winter afternoon.If you venture into the cold at night, parking is a godsend, even in hip `hoods like the East Side. On my Friday night visit, I scored a spot right in front of Hooligan’s Super Bar, a 70-year-old neighborhood favorite that draws a diverse local crowd. There’s a rotating 32 brews on tap, including local microbrews like Lakefront and Sprecher, and hundreds more taps decorate the walls. Across town at the Old German Beer Hall on Old World Third Street, parking was a little tougher, but worth it: Pints of Munich-brewed Hofbrauhaus flowed here like, well, beer, occasionally into oversized glasses shaped like boots - the accessory of choice. The runner-up? An antiquated cross-country ski to which five shot glasses were affixed, so that brethren can happily drink (or spill) in unison.I challenge Miami to show me that kind of camaraderie.IF YOU GO:DINING: Any of the Bartolotta Restaurants are safe bets for an excellent dining experience. Bacchus (925 E. Wells St., 414-765-1166; www.bacchusmke.com) has a mouthwatering menu with an emphasis on seafood, and the space is stylishly modern - and incredibly comfortable. Uptown is Bartolotta’s Lake Park Bistro (3133 E Newberry Blvd.; 414-962-6300; www.lakeparkbistro.com), home of the aforementioned glorious French bistro-style, prix-fixe Sunday brunch, with an incomparable view of Lake Michigan.If you’re going all out, there’s Sanford (1547 N. Jackson St.; 414-276-9608; www.sanfordrestaurant.com), which has topped Milwaukee’s fine dining elite for years. But just as good is chef Sanford D’Amato’s newer, more affordable Coquette Cafe (316 N. Milwaukee St., 414-291-2655; www.coquettecafe.com) in the Historic Third Ward. Coquette does the French brasserie classics - salade nicoise, soupe a l’oignon, coc au vin - expertly, and it’s priced within reason for a night out. Decidedly unpretentious is the cozy Pleasant Valley Inn in the nearby suburb of West Allis (9801 W. Dakota St., 414-321-4321), featuring classic Italian steak and seafood entrees and a Friday night fish fry.For a quick bite - and a taste of Milwaukee’s downtown resurgence - pop into the Milwaukee Public Market (400 N. Water St.; 414-289-3107; www.milwaukeepublicmarket.org), opened two years ago and home to dozens of vendors peddling meats, baked goods and, of course, Wisconsin cheese.Street food isn’t out of the question either, even in wintertime. During prime bar time, vendors up and down Old Third World Street (between State Street and Juneau Avenue) sell brats, polish sausages and dogs with all the fixins’ for an average of $3.50.Another quick, easy meal: Grab a sandwich and a cup of joe at any of the unique Alterra Coffee Roasters locations (www.alterracoffee.com) in Brew City. Speaking of brews, The Wicked Hop (345 N. Broadway; 414-223-0345; www.thewickedhop.com) serves pub food with an emphasis on pub, not to mention the largest cheese sticks this fromage-phile has ever seen.Don’t forget the butter burger - and Culver’s doesn’t count: Solly’s Grille in Glendale (4629 N. Port Washington Rd., Glendale; 414-332-8808) claims to be the birthplace of the butter burger, which it’s been serving since 1936. Save your frozen custard cruisin’ for the summertime: Leon’s Frozen Custard (3131 S. 27th St.; 414-383-1784) is open all year but doesn’t have any indoor seating.LODGING: Milwaukee isn’t big on the independent and boutique hotels, but there are a few worth mentioning: Hotel Metro (from $199; 411 E. Mason St.; 414-272-1937; www.hotelmetro.com) is a suites-only Art Deco gem on the east side of downtown. The beds are comfortable, and the service is excellent, but it pales in comparison to the renowned Pfister Hotel down the block (from $179; 424 E. Wisconsin Ave.; 414-273-8222; www.pfisterhotel.com), which has been a Milwaukee institution since it opened in 1893.WHAT TO DO: Winter, schminter. The Milwaukee Art Museum (700 N. Art Museum Dr.; 404-224-3200; www.mam.org) is open year-round - with a heated parking garage, to boot. Also open year-round: the Milwaukee Public Museum (with its balmy butterfly conservatory) and Daniel M. Soref Planetarium (800 W. Wells St.; 414-278-2702; www.mpm.edu); the Captain Frederick Pabst Mansion (2000 W. Wisconsin Ave.; 414-931-0808; www.pabstmansion.com); and the Sprecher Brewing Co. (701 W. Glendale Ave., Glendale; 414-964-2739; www.sprecherbrewery.com), where you warm up with sample brews before heading back out into the cold.INFORMATION: Greater Milwaukee Convention & Visitors Bureau, 800-231-0903; www.milwaukee.org.

Not many people can boast that they have enjoyed a spot of tea with the sheriff of Nottingham, as I did recently. Decked out in ceremonial garb with the crest of office prominently displayed, the current sheriff bears not the slightest resemblance to the mustache-twirling villain that Basil Rathbone channeled in the Errol Flynn Robin Hood film, or Alan Rickman’s campy incarnation in the Kevin Costner version years later.In fact, “he” is a “she” - Jeannie Packer, who, until her elevation to sheriff, was a member of the Nottingham Town Council. Unlike her 12th-century predecessor, who used the influence of his office to conspire with evil Prince John in an attempt to usurp good King Richard, Packer wields no power (her office is purely ceremonial). But while she doesn’t have to deal with a pesky band of outlaws hiding in Sherwood Forest, she does have to do her fair share of hand-shaking and baby-kissing as the city’s official goodwill ambassador. Hence, the early morning tea party at the imposing Council House with a group of awed travel writers.Nottingham, with its fascinating history, is in the center of the English Midlands, a region that surely must, at times, feel like the Rodney Dangerfield of the country - unable to garner any respect. In most visitors’ haste to get from London up to the Lake District and Scotland, they speed through the Midlands, stopping, if at all, only for petrol and a chance to use the loo.That’s a shame. For this picturesque region, whose landscape ranges from heather-clad moors to manicured country estates and gardens to the dramatic vistas of the Peak District National Park, spawned not only Robin Hood and the sheriff of Nottingham, but the Spencer family, whose most famous member, Diana, became the Princess of Wales; and the Dukes of Devonshire, whose magnificent estate, Chatsworth, is oddly, not in Devonshire, but here, in Derbyshire. Guy Fawkes hatched his thwarted plot to blow up Parliament here, and the doomed Mary, Queen of Scots, was beheaded in the village of Fotheringhay. The area is the ancestral home of George Washington and Benjamin Franklin. Visitors can take a guided tour of the factory that produces Royal Crown Derby porcelain or wend their way through serene Northamptonshire canals on colorful barges. In short, the Midlands has a lot to offer.In Nottingham, you can climb to a high rock overlooking the city upon which Nottingham Castle sits. Once a grim bastion with a history of murder and intrigue, it is now a decorative-arts and history museum. You can descend below the city into the vast network of caves, in use since Anglo-Saxon times. You can even pop in for a pint at England’s oldest pub, Ye Olde Trip to Jerusalem, built in 1189 right into the sandstone cliff below the castle. (Its unusual name comes from being the last stop for many Christian pilgrims before heading off to the Holy Lands and the Crusades.)Most people who have even a passing knowledge of England know about Bath, the charming spa town that has been a favorite of everyone from Roman legionnaires who came to test the healing mineral waters to the 18th-century aristocrats who came to create a playground away from London.But those same people might never have heard of Buxton, the Midlands’ answer to Bath. Tucked away in the foothills of the Peaks District (elevation 1,300 feet above sea level), it is as lovely a town as you are likely to find, even in England, with its reputation for picture-perfect villages.The Romans and the Georgians flocked here as well, along with royal prisoners, outlaws and noble benefactors. The mineral waters of the spa were as potent, and the Georgian Crescents as elegant, as those in Bath, so why the relative anonymity of Buxton when Bath positively overflows with tourists? You’ve got me.Enjoy its off-the-beaten-track cachet on a self-guided walking tour that will include the spacious Pavilion Gardens; the Opera House, which hosts a Gilbert and Sullivan Festival every summer, and its adjacent replica of London’s Kew Gardens; the Natural Baths, on the site of the original Roman Baths; and the Pump Room, which is being restored. Afterward, stop for lunch at the Old Hall Hotel, which dates to 1550 and counts Mary Queen of Scots among its distinguished guests.Eyam (pronounced eem) is notable for another reason. It holds the dubious distinction of being England’s most famous plague village. In the summer of 1665, a flea-infested bundle of cloth was delivered from London to the village tailor. The tailor died soon after, followed by other villagers. When the citizenry discovered what was causing the deaths, they selflessly chose to isolate themselves rather than allow the scourge to spread to neighboring villages. The plague raged in Eyam for more than a year; when it was over, only 83 of the 350 inhabitants were left.A visit to Eyam today, with its 11th-century parish church, picturesque cottages and rose gardens, is decidedly more pleasant, especially if you choose to dine with Robert and Nicola Wright, who have opened their gracious 17th-century manor house, Eyam Hall, to the public for intimate dinners (www.eyamhall.com).American visitors probably won’t want to leave the Midlands without paying a visit to Sulgrave Manor in Northamptonshire. The modest manor house might not be as imposing as others in the region, but, as far as Americans are concerned, it has an impeccable pedigree. When Lawrence Washington bought Sulgrave from Henry VIII in 1539, he couldn’t have imagined that his great-great-great-great-great-grandson would become the first president of the United States. Though George Washington never visited Sulgrave Manor, it is home to one of the UK’s largest collections of Washington memorabilia. The sight of Old Glory flying alongside the Union Jack denotes that the manor is jointly owned by the American and British people.Perhaps no 20th-century figure captured the world’s imagination as did Diana Spencer, a shy aristocrat whose destiny was to become a dazzling princess and darling of the media. Visitors to the Midlands can see where Diana’s story began with a visit to Althorp, for 500 years the home of the Spencers, one of England’s most illustrious families. Diana’s brother, Earl Spencer, is the current lord of the manor, and he has opened 19 rooms, including some of the Spencer family’s private apartments, to the public.After your visit, you can enjoy lunch at The White Hart Pub, especially popular on Sundays, when it offers a traditional English roast.As impressive as Althorp was, nothing prepared me for the grand spectacle that is Chatsworth, seat of the Duke and Duchess of Devonshire. One of Britain’s true treasure houses, it dates from the Tudor period (although very little of the original remains) and is the epitome of opulence.Inside, there’s the elaborate staircase leading to the Painted Hall depicting scenes from the life of Julius Caesar, and one of Europe’s finest private art collections, whose sculptures and canvases span 4,000 years. Outside, there’s the 105-acre garden, the maze and the Cascade, a water feature that drops 200 vertical feet in a fall of 24 steps. My visit came while the house was decorated for Christmas, only adding to its magic.On my last night in the Midlands, as I sat sipping wine in front of the crackling Tudor fireplace at Fawsley Hall and watching snow fall softly against the stained glass windows, I promised myself that never again would I be in a hurry to get from London to Scotland.IF YOU GO:Where to stay:-Fawsley Hall. This 700-year-old manor house offers the best in luxurious accommodations, candlelit dining and spectacular grounds. Near Daventry, Northamptonshire, NN11 3BA. Telephone: +44 (0) 1327 892000. www.fawsleyhall.com.- East Lodge. Set on 10 acres, the Lodge is a good base for visiting Chatsworth and the Peak District. Some rooms are small but are beautifully decorated, and the restaurant is a winner of two AA Rosette awards. Rates begin at $300. Rowsley, Matlock, Derbyshire DE4 2EF. Telephone: +44 (0) 1629 734 474. www.eastlodge.com.-Stapleford Park. Another former stately home turned grand hotel, with a heritage going back to the 14th century. Set on 500 acres, the hotel provides guests with a wide range of traditional English leisure pursuits. Melton Mowbray, Leicestershire, LE14 2EF. Telephone: +44 (0) 1572 787000. www.staplefordpark.com.Where to eat:-Darley’s, Darley Abbey Mill, Derbyshire DE22 1DZ; +44 (0) 1332 364987; www.darleys.com). A Michelin-recommended restaurant with a picturesque setting, it is a perfect lunch stop.-Harts Hotel & Restaurant (Nottingham NG1 6N; +44 (0) 115 988 1900; www.hartsnottingham.co.uk). This upmarket spot offers modern British cooking in a stylish and comfortable setting.-Good pub lunches can be had at The White Hart Pub (Grafton Regis, Northamptonshire NN12 7SR; +44 (0) 1908 542123; www.pubgraftonregis.co.uk) and The Althorp Coaching Inn (Great Brington, Northamptonshire; 01604 770651.)Learn more: For information on the English Midlands, go to www.visitbritain.com.

Travelers face a double whammy as border controls tighten and the price of a new passport jumps to over $100.Effective Jan. 31, all U.S. citizens must present either a passport or a government-issued photo ID, such as a driver’s license, plus proof of citizenship, such as a birth certificate. The birth certificate must be an official government birth certificate, not the fancy keepsake kind parents sometimes receive at hospitals. There’s a short list of other acceptable IDs, mostly military or government service cards.A passport is already required for anyone entering the United States from any foreign country by air. Mexican citizens already have to have a valid passport and visa to enter the country legally. More lax standards were in place at the Canadian border, but a passport will be required as of 2009.Customs officials said the first day of the new rules went smoothly. Few delays were reported at the Mexican and Canadian borders despite fears that new rules would create a logjam. Travelers without the proper identification under the new rules were allowed in after a review of documents they had, but officials said the informal grace period will be short.The State Department and Department of Homeland Security have said the stricter rules at the once relatively informal borders were needed to better control who gets into the country legally. The U.S. Customs Service reported that over the past two years, some 31,000 people claiming U.S. citizenship at the border were not citizens.The rules will tighten again later this year. The government does not have a firm date for when it will require everyone traveling overseas to have a passport. The original target date was at the beginning of this year. Last fall, the official state department Web site had the not-very-helpful projected deadline of “summer 2008.” Now it simply says “Later.” Arguments between Congress and the Bush Administration over implementation of the new standards has kept the deadline fluid.But sometime within the next year, it is expected most U.S. citizens entering the United States at sea or land ports of entry will have to show either a U.S. passport or a U.S. passport card (a new item under development). Again, there are exemptions for people with certain special IDs, mostly for merchant mariners and military personnel.Officials say travelers are best off getting a passport, which are now available at additional locations such as some city halls. Renewals can be done by mail.Meanwhile, the cost of a passport hit $100 on Feb. 1.The State Department announced the new prices recently, saying the higher fees were imposed “to cover the cost of providing efficient and secure passport services.” It’s a small but crucial increase, with the price of a passport now crossing into triple figures. Passports went from $97 to $100 for adults. Children’s passports (for those younger than 16) climbed from $82 to $85 for children younger than 16. Renewals that now cost applicants $67 have risen to $75.The State Department also changed a crucial law for parents - particularly those in families with divorces. Previously, both parents were required to appear in person to get a passport for a child younger than 14. That age has now risen to 16. One parent can still get the passport with the copious documentation of the other parent’s consent. Check out the State Department Web site for all the rules.Another option for people who cross the border frequently is the new U.S. Passport Card. U.S. citizens could begin applying for the card as of Feb. 1.The wallet-sized card can be used to meet the land and sea border travel documents requirement. The card will not be honored for air travel outside the U.S. The State Department hopes to start mailing the cards later this spring.The card is good for the same time period as a regular passport: 10 years for an adult and five years for children 15 and younger. The card costs $45 for adults and $35 for children. For adults who already have a passport, but want the convenience of the passport card for short trips, the cost will be $20.The card has been somewhat controversial because it will carry radio frequency identification (RFID) chip used by the Department of Homeland Security that can be read over very short distances. The chip will link the card to records in government databases.All these moves are part of the Western Hemisphere Travel Initiative, approved by Congress and President Bush in 2004.It used to be that travelers did not need a passport to visit Mexico, Canada, Bermuda and 17 places in the Caribbean. After 9-11, there were moves to change the informal policies and bring them more in line with the stricter general policy on foreign arrivals. Last year anyone traveling by air was required to have a passport to get back into the country. After lobbying from the cruise industry, a similar rule for those arriving by sea or land has been delayed. After the unexpected passport application crunch last year and the long delays, Congress agitated to have the timeline stretched out even further.Businesses near the Mexican border with California worried the new rules that went into effect on Jan. 31 would keep some customers away.Enrique Perez, director of the California-Mexico Trade Assistance Center in Santa Ana, Calif., said most people with business on both sides of the border already own passports but tourism to Baja California could be hard-hit by the change.Perez met recently with mayors from Rosarito, Ensenada and Tijuana to develop a plan to promote tourism in an ad campaign that will urge U.S. citizens in California to get their passports so they can continue to make the trip.”This is going to have an impact on the tourism immediately,” Perez said, explaining that the mayors expect tourism to wane over the next three months as the rule takes effect. “Most of the people coming back (to the U.S.) are not going to have passports.”"Spring break is around the corner and that is when they’re really going to know if there’s going to be a major impact because a lot of those kids are not going to have passports,” he said.Border facts: -The San Ysidro Border Inspection Station between San Diego and Tijuana is the busiest border crossing in the U.S. The U.S. Customs Service says 17 million cars pass through the facility’s 24 lanes during fiscal year 2006. It handles an average of 110,000 travelers a day or 4,500 every hour of the year.-Mexican tourism officials say that 21.5 million foreign visitor arrivals occurred in 2007, generating a record $13 billion U.S. dollars, up 6.6 percent from 2006.-The State Department reported in fiscal year 2007 that it issued a record 18.4 million passports - up from 12.1 million in 2006.-About 4,000 miles long, the U.S.-Canadian border is considered the longest non-fortified border in the world. The border with Mexico is just less than 2,000 miles long.For more information: Go to the State Department Web page on border crossing rule changes at http://travel.state.gov/travel/cbpmc/cbpmc(underscore)2223.html.

In my travels, I have repeatedly learned that it is very easy to be a long way from anywhere in parts of West Virginia.Welcome to Smoke Hole.That’s the name given to a very pretty and surprisingly isolated canyon along the South Branch of the Potomac River in eastern West Virginia.It is a half-mile-deep canyon with nearly vertical walls and is considered by many to be among the most beautiful spots in West Virginia.You may see both bald and golden eagles in Smoke Hole, parts of which are not accessible by car.There is evidence of old farmsteads in the canyon, but that’s about all.The canyon stretches north-south from near Petersburg in Grant County south to Upper Tract, north of Franklin in Pendleton County, and roughly parallels U.S. 220.Smoke Hole lies east of North Fork Mountain, one of West Virginia’s premiere long-distance hiking trails, and west of Cave Mountain, not far from the West Virginia-Virginia state line.It is a rugged, inaccessible and isolated area - wild backcountry. You are a long way from anywhere.The Smoke Hole area, known locally as Smoke Holes, covers about 40 square miles in the Spruce Knob-Seneca Rocks National Recreational Area within the sprawling Monongahela National Forest.But visitors go instead to Spruce Knob, the highest point in West Virginia at 4,863 feet, and Seneca Rocks, the 900-feet-tall cliffs that rise above the North Fork of the South Branch of the Potomac River.Spruce Knob is a windswept spot dominated by stunted, one-sided spruce trees, blueberry, huckleberry and azalea. It features an observation tower that offers sweeping 360-degree vistas of the West Virginia high country. The area offers more than 70 miles of backcountry trails.The U.S. Forest Service operates a first-rate visitors’ center near Seneca Rocks, the quartzite cliffs that are popular with climbers and are one of the most distinctive natural features in West Virginia.Both Spruce Knob and Seneca Rocks, along with two commercially run caverns, are all west of North Fork Mountain - far removed from Smoke Hole.There is no road to the portion of the Smoke Hole canyon between the Big Bend Campground and Petersburg, a distance of about 15 miles.No one is sure how the area came to be known as Smoke Hole.Morning fogs often fill the canyon until the suns burns them away. There are historic accounts of Indians using nearby caves to smoke meat. Others claim the smoke came from moonshiners’ stills.One of the best ways to see Smoke Hole is to paddle the 25-mile section from U.S. 220 north to Petersburg.The five miles from the road to the Forest Service picnic area are the most difficult, with large boulders and almost continuous whitewater. It is for experienced paddlers only, with mostly Class 2 and Class 3 paddling.Rapids are rated on a 1-to-6 scale, with 1 being the easiest and 6 being the most difficult.Between the picnic area and Big Bend Campground, the stream is gentler and easier. It is popular with small rafts, tubers, canoes and kayaks. The stream itself features many short rapids and calm pools.Many paddlers camp near Blue Rock, a huge rock cliff, and make it a two-day trip.Water levels may be too low for late summer trips.One outfitter is Eagles Nest Outfitters at P.O. Box 731, Petersburg, WV 26847; 304-257-2393, http://www.eaglesnestoutfitters.com. The company offers 12 different river trips from April through October, including Smoke Hole paddle trips.Two roads provide some access to Smoke Hole and its limited facilities.State Route 2 enters the southern end of Smoke Hole near Upper Tract. It follows the river for about nine miles into the canyon. The first 5.5 miles are paved but narrow.That road will take you past Eagle Rock, a towering rock formation rising out of the river. It was named for Col. William Eagle, a Revolutionary War soldier who lived nearby and is buried near the rock.At an old store and a log church (St. George Episcopal), the road splits. One fork continues along the river to the Big Bend Campground, where the road ends. The other climbs north on the edge of North Fork Mountain and then down to the North Fork and state Route 28. It is a narrow, winding road that passes old farms. Traffic is generally light.On a peninsula in the river, the Big Bend Campground features 46 sites with water and flush toilets from April 15 to Oct. 1. Some sites are available from March 1 to Dec. 15, but only hand-pump water is available.Primitive camping is available at the Jess Judy Camping Area along the river.Camping is also allowed along Smoke Hole Road 28/11 on North Fork Mountain but not near trailheads.Camping is prohibited along River Road except in designated areas.Smoke Hole is popular with anglers seeking trout and smallmouth bass. It is stocked by the West Virginia Department of Natural Resources with rainbow and golden trout from January through June and again in October.Special catch-and-release restrictions apply between Eagle Rock and Kimble Cabins.Smoke Hole is also popular with hunters in the fall.The only trail strictly in Smoke Hole is a 3.5-mile South Branch Trail, a loop from the picnic area. The blue-blazed trail follows the river downstream, ascends a ridge, passes fields and old farms and drops back down to the river.The best hiking may be 24-mile-long North Fork Mountain Trail. It stretches from U.S. 33 north to where the Smoke Hole Road nears state Route 28 west of Petersburg.Trailheads for the trail, which looks down on Smoke Hole, are located along Smoke Hole Road 28/11.For information, contact the Potomac Ranger District, U.S. Forest Service, Route 3, Box 240, Petersburg, WV 26847; 304-257-4488 (weekdays only); http://www.fs.fed.us/r9/mnf/sp/smokehole.html. You can also contact the Seneca Rocks Visitor Center, U.S. Forest Service, P.O. Box 13, Seneca Rocks, WV 26884; 304-567-2827 (closed in winter); http://www.fs.fed.us/r9/mnf/sp/srdc.html. Also, the Pendleton County Chamber of Commerce, P.O. Box 737, Franklin, WV 26807; 304-358-3884; http://www.visitpendleton.com. Also, the Grant County Chamber of Commerce, 105 Virginia Ave., Suite 1, Petersburg, WV 26847; 304-257-2722; http://www.gowv.com.